Forgive me for the longer than usual socio-political discourse. I guess I have a pocket of time, And also, this being the last state covered, I thought I would make it more similar to the book from which my series is derived.
Kelantan and its capital Kota Bharu have long been recognised as culturally unique, what with its closeness to the Thai border. Look, even the 'Bharu' is spelt differently. Another reason why some Singaporeans misunderstand the state is because it has been under the governance of PAS, an Islamic party, since 1986. Even my Malaysian colleague in the office (she hails from Subang in Selangor) said she was afraid to go there because of its 'fundamentalist' inclinations.
We felt no such tension as we walked around the city though. Chinese businesses ran undisturbed near Malay ones. Until recently, PAS was part of the an alliance involving also the DAP and PKR, which together won most of the popular vote (but not the most parliamentary seats) in the 2013 election. Indeed, it had quite significant support from Chinese voters in Kelantan, going on a platform of clean government and accountability. It left the alliance in quite acrimonious terms, however, over its insistence to implement hudud law in Kelantan.
Perhaps the affiliation with PAS has seen Kelantan suffer in terms of development. Despite being rich in natural resources such as oil, the average salary of some RM700 plus makes it the poorest state in Peninsular Malaysia. While some Singaporeans have always wondered whether voting in an opposition MP results in slower HDB upgrading and less PAP kindergartens, one wonders if voting in an opposition at state level in Malaysia results in the entire geographical region being 'shut out'.
Whatever the case, we were not complaining at the prices. For example, Rabbit's keropok which she buys from JB because it is cheaper than in Singapore, was sold it half price in Kota Bharu, We also helped ourselves to generous seafood helpings while in the Siti Khatijah Market.
And also heavenly chicken Thais at a Yati's a famous Ayam Percik stall on the road to the airport.
Kelantan is also famous for its beaches. One of its more well-known, PCB, was originally known as Pantai Cinta Berahi - Beach of Passionate Love - but was renamed Pantai Cahaya Bulan - Beach of Moonlight - when the conservative PAS came to power. I guess for some reason it was important to obtain the PCB acronym?
It doesn't look much of a beach in this picture. Firstly, it was the monsoon. But perhaps more importantly, as told to us by the person who rented us our car, years of erosion has left it less than desirable as a beach. Apparently, people no go to Tok Bali, which we had no time to go to.
Kelantan is also home to a rather famous border with Thailand, Rantau Panjang, which, it is said (I have no first hand experience), the ostensibly pious in Kelantan use to cross over to the Thai border town Sungei Kolok, to partake in... less pious activities.
And who can forget the kites, or Waus? When people talk about Malaysian kites, very often they refer to Kelantan kites. The logo of MAS, the national carrier of Malaysia, consists of a Wau Kucinta - Cat Kite. But the classics are the Wau Bulans or Moon Kites. And we were lucky to be able to see them in various stages of construction when we visited acclaimed kite maker Pak Shafie near PCB.
Indeed, these fascinating kites can be small, like the twoI bought for RM100 each...(They were meant for ornamental use and such made with cloth instead of paper)
Or they could be huge...
Brilliant. But pity that all too soon, we had to fly away to our next destination, Will definitely try to visit Kelantan again...
And there thus ends the articles on each of the individual states of Peninsular Malaysia!
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